Monday, November 30, 2009
Sunday, November 29, 2009
WONDER KID
C Wach
Weird?
I really owe you a lot C Wach. Thanks for your support and everything you have done for me. I couldn't have gotten to where I am now without your help. You are a very intelligent and creative kid and somehow you are only 19! I wish you the best of luck for the future even though you don't need it. I know you will go very far in life. Thanks a lot mate.
:)
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Domo Arigato Gozaimasu
thank-you
[thangk-yoo]–adjective
| 1. | expressing one's gratitude or thanks: a thank-you note. |
–noun
| 2. | an expression of thanks, as by saying “thank you” |
I couldn't of made it to where I am today without you guys. Thank you so much for all your support and everything you have done for me. I can really say, I am the most stoked kid..... ever! I can't wait to see what the future has in store for us. :)
THANKYOU!
Icons ~ Of ~ Surf
Monday, November 23, 2009
Mentawai's
The day came so quick when my Dad and I were finally off to the Mentawai Islands. Our day started off early with a flight out of LAX. Like I always do, I stay awake staring at the head rest in front of me because I can't seem to get comfortable any which way I sit in my seat. We had so may hours to travel, I couldn't even begin to think how much longer we had to go.
Baby Panda
We finally got to Honk Kong around 12 hours later. We really only had enough time to check out the weird electronics and eat some very interesting food. Before we knew it, we were back on the plane. Only 6 my hours to go..... just great huh. ahaha Same ol' deal went on the plane. Once again, we arrive at the other airport in Jakarta, Indonesia. We just got a massage and walked around until our next connecting flight to Padang. Just talking about all this traveling makes me tired. It was quite the energy drainer but once we arrived in Padang and were picked up, we felt quite relieved. We were driven a couple hours down the coast to a huge harbor where our boat, The Midas, was. The boat where we would be for the next 2 weeks.
After a group safety meeting upstairs, we were told to find bunks down below and everyone scurries down below the decks to try and find what one would call, "the best bunk". Some how I came up on the best room on the boat. 2 bunks with 2 couches, private room with private bathroom and flat screen. Starting the trip off with a happy dad is always a good thing!
I wake up to light blinding me and can't understand why! My little porthole window blinds were open and the sun was shining through into my eyes. I get up to shut the blinds and I look out the window to only see machine-like tubes barrell by. I run upstairs so fast, got my board and was out there in a matter of seconds.
I probably got some of the gnarliest waves I have ever surfed in my life on this morning. Before I caught my first wave, I sat and watched many people get kegged out of their minds multiple time before I paddled to the peak. Before I could say hippopotamus, I was flying inside of this crystal clear barrel and out came Kameron on
his 7' 2" Wayne Lynch Gun! haAHAHA
I couldn't yet explain how much surfing that took place on this boat. We had so many dedicated guys willing to surf 3+ times a day no matter what. I was super fortunate to have such a nice set of guys. The scenery of blue skies and luscious forests with great waves probably helped contribute the good vibes that everyone was giving off. I owe a lot to Indonesia and the surf that is produced there. It reminded me again that mother nature can take one's life at any moment so be careful and be ready at all times. Here's a few photos from the trip! Hope you get a chance to go there. Life changing trip for sure :)
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Everything is Bigger in Texas, Except Waves!
So after a long trip in the Texan terrain of sweet tea, tanker waves, and Lone Star's, I am finally home in the nestled little city of Dana Point. 9 Days feels a lot longer when you away from home. Fortunately for Christian and I, we got to stay at a friends house in Corpus Christi, Texas. Jon Steele is his name. He is a photographer born and raised in Texas but now lives in Southern California. He gave us true southern hospitality. His mother would make pound cake and have coffee ready for us every morning! True Texans. Thanks guys.
We somehow arrived in Texas the evening of the last day of swell and only got 2 days of tiny bumpy surf. We managed to get 2 tanker waves and drove a total of about 30 hours going to different 'surf cities' throughout Texas' coastal bend.
Port Aransas
5 Minute Tanker Wave
(Morgan Faulkner, Christian Wach, Texan, Kameron Brown)
photo: Jon Steele
Crip huh?
photo: Jon Steele
That wave ended up going for over 5 minutes down the Port Aransas Channel. Cutbacks, noserides, parallel stance, and pure stoked was pretty much all that was going on during that wave. It was pure amazement just cruising on this wave with 3 great friends laughing hysterically just giving each other high 5's the whole way.
We arrived in Texas during the very end of and swell and somehow left the day before what Texans call, a good swell.I got news today from a Texan friend Miles Cooper, that the waves are over head with perfect conditions......? Bummed is the only word that could explain my feelings. So, enough of me complaning.. :) check out these waves.
Texan Tube Ride
Ryan Engle Nation Surfboards
Morgan Faulkner
Very Talented Texan Local
I always thought there 'aint' no waves in Texas but I am 100% incorrect. Maybe i'll end up in Texas for a round 2 another day and maybe that time I will get some nice tubes rides like these there folks! Hope everyone has a good weekend. Here are also a few pictures from a lil' fishin experience. Cheers mates.
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Can I get ya'll some swet tea?
Tay Has
About a week ago, my best friend Christian Wach and free-lance photographer, Jon Steele invited me to take a trip to SE Texas to surf some texan beach breaks, hunt down some intense Tanker waves, and promote Jon's newest film 'Jazz The Glass'. We arrived at the beach a day late and got the infamous quote, "Shoulda' been here yesterday ya'll." The swell had just barely passed and the waves were about ankle high. We made the best of it and went for a surf. South Padre Island here we come!
Christian Wach
Ended up being quite a fun session. I always have fun somehow! :) So, for the next week we will be traveling up and down the SE coast searching for waves, promoting Jon's movie, and rocking out with the band 'Will Crum', that traveled from Cali to rock out at our art shows. Check 'em out.
More on tanker waves later!
CHEERRRRS!!
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)