Monday, January 24, 2011
Sunday, January 23, 2011
Friday, January 21, 2011
This was the first day, on the first board. I can't believe I actually built this surfboard. Possibly my favorite log, I have ever ridden. I don't know if it's just because I made it but somehow this board just works. Time will tell (:
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Janurary 14 and 15 in Santa Cruz, California.
16 of the worlds top longboarders have been invited to Steamers Lane to compete for a purse prize of $10,000. The surfers are encouraged to go beyond contest normality and get the best board sacrifice, split peaks, and share waves, as there is a $500 prize in each heat for the best shared wave and also a $1000 prize for the best board sacrifice during the contest...... never really heard or seen anything like that before? STOKED! (:
Good friend of my Nathan Adams and myself loaded my panda van for a week long trip filled with the most crip adventures known possible. It all started around 3:30 am on wednesday the 12th. Woke up (more like jumped out of bed) brushed the teeth, and out the door I was. Picked up Naterz by 4 am and on the road we were by 4:11. Coffee and stoke challest in hand, cruise control set at 75, and smooth sailing for the next 436.4 miles. Parking spot (my house) to parking spot (steamer's lane).... 6 hours and 19 minutes. ~charging~
It is my first trip to Santa Cruz, even north of santa barbara for that matter, so we decided to take the 101 and was probably the best idea we could have done. Grape vines, gorgeous mountains, artichoke fields, rolling hills, sunrise??? Perfection at its finest. I was told next time to take the 1 through Big Sur. Atleast now I have another reason to go up there besides all of the sexy granola/ hippee chicks (:
We pulled up to what I thought was perfect waves. The glassy waves and mass balls of kelp gave me an EAR-y feeling of frozen waters. Wore my new 4.3 Coral Reef full suit and was surprisingly very warm. First 4.3 i've owned and now I know why they make em? hahahah
We surfed and hanged and surfed and drank and chilled and explored and laughed and jacuzzied and ate and ate and ate. Vans is by far one of the BEST companies on the face of this earth. Nicest, radest, down to earth, most rad vibe filled company I have been around. All the surfers got put in a 5 star hotel on the beach along with breakfast and dinner everyday and enough beverages to fill a camel. I know there are many, many more people involved with the happening of this amazing event but I really wanted to say thank you to Scott at Vans and Joel Tudor. Without you guys and your love for life, this contest wouldn't have been put on and none of this would be my past... and I would have never seen ALEX absolutely SHRED his way to the final. I have never been taken care of this much or been around this many people with smiles on their faces and I appreciate you involving me.
There are many websites with the full details of the comp. Vans, surfer, etc. all have an article on the event and I highly recommend you read about it. These Duct Tape- Joel Tudor Invitationals will hopefully change the world and their outlooks on longboarding.
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Monday, January 17, 2011
There's always those times when you know you need a new board. Get all worked up with all these ideas of colors and rockers and size and length and and and and the list goes on. You need to find out who is going to shape your board along with price and time and where and who and how and why?
Making surfboards is not an east thing to do. Remember back to your last board when it took 3 weeks longer than expected and still didn't come out "right". There's always time of waiting and wondering when it is being built. I went beyond those boundaries and came up with the idea to make my own surfboard. Called up a few friends and off to the shop I was.
I have so much more respect for clear glass jobs and perfected glass jobs along with laminators that can match a color by 'eye'. There is so much perfection in this industry it blows my mind. I think perfection is the main factor in docking companies as 'the best factory'. Everything from measuring the catalyst to cutting the laps..... took me by surprise.
Here are some photos of my very first surfboard..... Nugget Chaser #1.. hang 2010
commencing shred ...
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Monday, January 10, 2011
I was in Australia this past year for 3 months and encountered many things. This was at my buddy Matt Cuddihy's local sandy stretch, Marcus Beach. A hatching of turtles right before our eyes. What seemed like 100's of baby turtles came rushing out of this tunnel of a hole in the sand. It seemed as though they all had a group meeting before they all broke the surface. One after another, they instantaneously climbed out of the sand and started booking it towards the ocean. Not one turtle hesitated..... even with us 'humans' being present.
All in all, a small team of volunteers were present making sure every little turtle was taken care of and okay for departure. They made sure I did not touch any of these baby turtles..... or else I'd have one as a pet at this very moment <(")penguins
I know there comes a time when you feel the need to change your wax. There is no proper way of extracting wax, or any rule book, to get that old black sticky wax off your boards. My tools consist of acetone, towels, an abundance of sun, and last but not least, a "wax buddy". It's the perfect surf comb morphed with every possible tool to get your stick fresh and ready to shred.