photoby: Geoff Fanning
So... Australia.... I love you.
This year is now my 3rd time coming to Australia.... in a row. I love it here. At the moment it is 80 degrees outside and the water is about 78 degrees and it is absolutely bowing my mind. It was March 8th yesterday, that meaning I just turned 22 years old. I have had my birthday in Australia the past three years and I have to admit that just being here is by far one of the best birthday presents I could ask for. I come out here to not only hang out with friends but I enter into the annual Noosa Festival Of Surfing contest. People from all over the world travel here to experience this event. You should see how packed it gets here in Noosa. You can seriously drive around for an hour looking for car parks, and if the waves are pumping, and you are not an aggressive surfer.... you can catch "no" waves. The level of surfing here is through the roof. Everybody from lil grommets to old farts, literally rip the lip off of these waves. I feel as though noosa is like a book. Every page (wave) is new..... and you neeeeed to read the page to the best of your ability or you'll be catching the worst waves all day.... I was surfing last night with my good friend Harrison Roach and noticed that every wave I'd paddle for.... he wouldn't want.... and every wave he paddled for... looked like absolute nothing. Guess again.... I would turn around and see that his tiny little bump of a wave would double up and start DRILLLING down the line with perfect shape.. A lot to learn from these ozzy shredders.
My plan this trip is to stay from the 5- 25th of march. This was a very similar itinerary to my trip last year and...... those 3 weeks turned into 3 months! I called quantas airlines the night before my flight out and extended my trip another 2 1/2 more months. So, in all honesty, who really knows how long my trip will be this year. (:
The waves have been so fun since I have arrived here and I hear they are here to stay for a while. There is a swell in the making and we're supposed to have solid swell for at least the next week. The Noosa comp starts on Saturday the 12th meaning we will probably/hopefully score some pretty good waves. This year I have entered the Nose rider Trials and the Old Mal events. (Quick thanks to ICONS OF SURF as they made it possible for me to make it to Australia.)
I haven't seen a kangaroo yet but once I do... I will jump on his back and go for an intense ride!
In Route To Noosa
Harry San Roach
Harrichan Adee Special
-first meal harrison made for me-