Monday, November 15, 2010
I figure I will surf the rest of my life. It's more of a internal healing rather than a work out. When I am on a wave, there is nothing else in the world I focus on except the ocean rushing and crashing along the shore line. Waves are created by wind, tide, moon, etc..... All formed together, it travels thousands of miles across an ocean to only release all of its energy on the shore. Waves are almost like snowflakes, not any one wave is alike. All different, all changing. You must be ready on your toes for anything to happen at any moment. I sometimes wonder what life would be without surfing. It has brought me to reality as a different person. Surfing connects me with life, my surroundings, people, stars, flowers, life, beauty, and so much more. It has taught me to be thankful for what I have in life. I notice mother nature a lot more and her beautiful things she has created for us. Fishing, hiking, skiing, traveling, etc. have all followed with my love for surfing. It's like the best drug you could ever have. I don't know where this is going besides the fact that surfing has changed my life and I know it can change yours too. I want everyone to smile and be happy. Even if this world is corrupt, I feel my duty here is to smile, love, be loved, stay happy, and grow old knowing I did all you could do to better myself, and the people around me.